Trouble Shooting
For all of those that have built an engine, you have
accomplished a great task.  The initial start up of your Red
Wing Engine, is a time for celebration.  However, if you are
having a problem, it can be very frustrating, even if it is a
simple fix.  Below, I will try to add a few suggestions to get
around the most common problems you may run into.
 

Thanks for buying a Red Wing.
#1     If you are not using a Buzz Coil, Don't wast your
time
.  
I have tried an electronic ignition supplied by a popular supplier and
found that it would not provide a hot enough spark.  The argument
provided by the electronic ignition supplier was that a repetitive spark
that is supplied by the buzz coil is a waste of energy.  They say isn't
necessary.  I fell for that and wasted $55.00 .  If it works, don't fix it!!!  
Use a Buzz Coil !!

Note:  I have heard of one supplier that seems to have a system that
works.  It is an electronic Buzz Coil.  
#2                 Contact point problem
The ignition stud and contact stud should be made of brass.  I like to bevel
the contact stud a lot more than the prints call for.  It seems to slice through
the dirt and make a very good contact with the extra bevel!  Oil will not
effect the quality of the contact connection.  It is the dirt that mixes with the
oil that causes the problem.  

A simple way I have found to quickly test the contact connection is to press
down on the contact stud with your finger while the engine is rotating.  
Listen to the sound of the buzz coil.  If the buzz from the buzz coil gets
louder, there is some degree of contact problem.  If your engine seems to
be sluggish while running but picks up speed when you press down on the
contact stud, this confirms a contact problem.

After a lot of running, your contact stud may wear down to the point that it
has to be replaced.  This is normal.
#3            Timing and Cam adjustments
The flywheel turns clockwise when viewed from the governor side of the
engine.  The timing has to be set first, so start with the piston at top dead
center.  Now set the timing lever so it is vertical.  The ignition stud should
just start to make contact with the metal insert that is in the non conductive
material that turns with the timing gear.  

The way to adjust this is to slide the whole timing assembly off of the shaft,
turn the timing gear and slide it back onto the shaft.  Fine tuning of the
ignition timing can be done with the lever.  Now we can move on to the cam.

To set the cam, start turning the flywheel until you have gone 155 degrees
past top dead center.  Sounds tough, but 180 minus 155 equals 25.  25
degrees is the angle that the bearing base on the engine frame was milled.  
All you have to do is set the throw of the crankshaft to the same angle as
the mating surface of the bearing base and bearing caps.  Adjust the cam
so it just starts to push the push rod.  Your done.
#4      Spark Jump and how to fix it!
If you are having trouble with some of the buzz coil spark traveling along the
side of the plug, you may not be the only one.  Remember that electricity
will take the path of least resistance.  Here is what is happening.  

When air is compressed inside the cylinder, its resistance is increased.  
The resistance of the air between the spark plug gap has to be less than
resistance from the spark plug wire to the side of the engine frame.  
Normally it will be.  When the spark plug gets a little dirty on the electrodes,
the resistance is increased.  This is why the spark starts to jump along the
side of the plug to the engine frame.  How do you solve this problem?  

The factory gap on the spark plug sold with the Red Wing kit is about 0.020
or 20 thousandths.  This works fine until the plug gets a little dirty.   When
the spark plug gap is closed a little the resistance is decreased.  This
keeps the spark on the inside and not on the outside.  

I have started setting my spark plug gaps to 10 thousandths and the
problem has been eliminated.  Yes, the engine still runs great!